So, again with my procrastinatory Googling of dead relatives… but this time I think I may have decided where I want to live next, weather and finances and fate permitting.
This pretty much all started when I heard from the lovely and inimitable Lee Child that he would be going to Saratoga, New York, for a library gig–at which I hope he was madly feted since he’s really cool and stuff. For some reason, I remembered from earlier dead-relative Googling that my great-great Uncle, Dr. Valentine Seaman, had done the first chemical analysis of the waters of Saratoga and Ballston Spa in the late 1700s.
He looks quite a bit like my dad, actually–including the sideburns.
Totally the same forehead and cheekbones, even though you probably can’t tell since this is of course not a profile shot of Dad (my scrapbooks are all in storage in California.) Dad had a better nose, though. Not to mention way longer legs.
Here’s Valentine’s great-niece, Caroline Seaman Read, with her daughter Carol. She was Dad’s grandmother:
Great-Great-Uncle Valentine was also the guy who introduced Jenner’s cowpox vaccine for smallpox to America, after his eldest daughter died of a live-smallpox inoculation. Valentine traveled to England to ask Jenner about his work, became lifelong friends with the guy, and returned home to New York City with some cowpox in his luggage. There were apparently riots in NYC because people were terrified that he’d start an epidemic, plus his colleagues at The New York Hospital were pretty freaked out by it, so he volunteered to treat his own remaining children with the stuff first.
He also did the first training classes for nurses in the United States–a twenty-two-lecture series on midwifery.
Oddly enough, my daughters were born at what is now New York Hospital-Cornell Medical Center. I remember the morning the cab let my husband and me out at the entrance to the maternity ward. There was a small bronze plaque near the front doors which, if memory serves, read “New York Lying-In Hospital, 1793.”
I thought to myself at the time that I was totally fucking glad not to be standing in that spot in 1793, since they probably had dirt floors and stone knives and bearskins, and I badly wanted an epidural, but I had no idea that had I been suddenly whisked back 199 years that I might well have met up with my great-great uncle. Weird, huh?
Anyway, interesting guy and he died of consumption at age 47 (my age this year), in the front room of the family house on Beeckman Street. His son Valentine, also a doctor, lived to the age of 96 and was written up in the New York Times the year before his death because he was thought to be at that time the oldest native inhabitant of the city.
Here’s Valentine the Younger’s obituary from The New York Times, which is pretty interesting reading about the old days further downtown:
THAT Valentine and his brother John bought 25 acres at the northern tip of Manhattan and John built a country place on the site. Henry and his wife referred to it as “Mount Olympus,” but the locals called it “Seaman’s Folly.”
Here’s what it looked like later, after it became the home of a riding club:
Though from a different angle, this would have been what the house had a view of:
Actually, maybe that building at the top left WAS the house? Not sure…
Here’s a fuller description from myinwood.net (quoted from an article in The New York Herald, August 29th, 1869):
The mansion is built entirely of white marble, quarried by Mr. Seaman on the spot. It is seventy-eight feet deep and in plan is nearly square. It has a main dome reaching a height of ninety feet from the ground, with its top painted a dark maroon color. There are also two smaller domes, whose arches are surmounted by the statues of Love and Music respectively. It is hardly possible to give a correct view of this house—a house that has few equals in the world, and one that is a combination of capacious wings, towering chimneys, vaulted domes, Roman windows and sharply defined, yet not ungraceful lines. If defies classification according to the schools of art, yet it is inferior to none of them, while a combination of all. The plan of breaking away from what is pure Grecian or Roman is a praiseworthy innovation, and one, which has been followed with triumphant success along the river. From the northern porch the ground assumes a gently declining surface till it touches the drive in continuous groves of beautiful evergreens; from the eastward it descends on eight terraces, along which are constructed the extensive hothouses; from the southward the garden spots and statuary dot the green, and to the southward are the stables and the valley.
Let us enter the house. The door is flanked with fine pieces of statuary, and once within a wide and lofty hall, with the usual furniture, is seen. To the extreme south end of the house is the octagonal library, fitted up at great expense. Closets whose doors support long and beautifully gilded mirrors, statues of Scott, Shakespeare, Byron, Milton, Homer, Esculapius, Socrates and Pluto fill niches in the wall, and also the mind from the measures of heroic verse to the eternity of dreary philosophy. Some fine paintings hang on the walls, and the western windows look out into a small conservatory, in which statues of the four Seasons are placed in appropriate positions. These figures are about two feet high….
Looking north can be seen Spuyten Duyvil creek and the rich and fertile acres which it washes; the Harlem river with its torturous course winding like a snake through the tall grass and thick shrubs; a section of the Hudson shining like a lake of molten silver, and tinged with crimson by the setting sun; the misty hills rising from the valley and just perceptible through the haze, the weird glens, the weather beaten crags and torpid mountains. A scene like this is but a portion of what strikes the eye at every point; and this sublime panoramic view has been gazed upon by many eminent Europeans, who declare that nothing equals it in the Old World.
At the entrance to the porch two figures in the dress of the time of Louis XIV stand out in conspicuous prominence, and a statue of America caps the main dome: the interior is frescoed with Cupids. The house is connected from room to room with an alarm telegraph, so, that should burglars aspire to transfer some of Mr. Seaman’s valuables the dial would at once indicate their location and anxieties, when doubtless he would treat them with becoming civility….
The hothouses are very extensive. They consist of graperies, a pinery and greenhouses. The pinery is fifty feet deep, and is very fruitful. The graperies now groan under heavy loads of their delicious fruit. They are two in number, separated by a plant house, and have a through depth of 212 feet, with a width of 22 ½ feet, with a lean-to quadrant shaped roofs. A steam engine is used to throw the water on the grape vines, which have hothouse peaces just in their rear; and against the wall some rare figs. The whole arrangement of these graperies is a model of neatness. No finer fruit of this kind is grown in America. Every species abounds. There are the black Hamburgs, the Victoria Hamburgs, some bunches of which weigh six pounds; the white Nice, the Muscat Alexandrias and the royal muscadines; the Timothy de Burgh, the earliest golden Chasselas [below],
grizzly Frottingaus and white Prottingans. The plant house in winter contains 2,500 pots. The western slope is now broken up for improvements. A small lake is to be constructed; and adjoining, an ice house, so that he can make his own ice.
This being my family, of course, what with their absolute genetic genius for losing fortunes and squandering swaths of gorgeous bountiful real estate, all that’s left of the place today is what’s known as the Seaman-Drake Arch, touted as a perfect scale model of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris:
The above is from sometime in the Twenties, I suppose. Below is how it was situated when the house was still a going concern, at the center of the photograph (looking towards the Hudson, with the Johnson Iron Works in the foreground–manufacturer of cannons during the Civil War):
Check out the billboards along the Harlem River…
These days, it looks like this:
It’s now at 216th Street and Broadway. They think maybe there was once a gatekeeper’s residence on the interior, but it burned out decades ago.
Henry Seaman had a made a fortune in “drugs” (no shit), but lost it all. Luckily, his wife Ann was rich, so she kept the place up during her lifetime. When she died, 140 relatives contested the estate. She left it all to her nephew Lawrence Drake, whom her late husband had forbade from ever visiting the property when he was still alive. Which just goes to show you that George Burns was right about the secret to a happy life, to wit, “having a large loving family in a distant city.”
Here’s a little description of local street names from the deeply fabulous Inwood historical website myinwood.net, the following a description of the road that runs in front of the arch:
Broadway Generally acknowledged to have followed the old Weckquaesgeek Indian trail that ran the thirteen mile length of Manhattan. Early settlers called it the Bloomindale Road. Going north the original trail crossed the then shallow Spuyten Duyvil Creek into what today is Marble Hill. At low tide a traveler could cross the Spuyten Duyvil Creek on foot. Records show that Indians referred to the crossing as “The Wading Place.” Future generations would see a ferry crossing and eventually the King’s Bridge.
There’s also Indian Road, just a block and a half long off 218th Street, near the northern end of Seaman Ave.
It’s the last street on Manhattan that’s still officially named a “road.” I’ve read that it was named that because this is approximately the spot at which Peter Minuit bought Manhattan from the Lenape tribe for sixty guilders. Aunt Jean says we all have some Lenape blood, which is way cool, not least because Mom’s side of the family killed of the Pequot in Connecticut.
Click on “view larger map” and then zoom in twice to see the street names. Where the Seaman house once stood is now Park Terrace East and Park Terrace West
There’s a 400-unit apartment complex there now, designed by Albert Goldhammer. It was built in 1940 and is still wonderfully deco, with lots of actual garden lacing between the buildings.
But to back up again a little, here’s what the old neighborhood looked like:
Those were apparently the last cows kept in Manhattan. We’re looking towards the Hudson again, over Spuyten Duyvil Creek (pronounced SPYden DYEvull.) This is possibly now the site of Baker Field, where Columbia plays football (there’s a sixty-foot tall “C” painted on a palisade across the river.)
It’s funny, I remember trying to go find an apartment in this neck of the woods the last time I lived in the city… the rental prices were just so amazing, I asked my husband if we could drive up there and check it out. We got lost in Washington Heights, then at the peak of a Dominican crack fest, and all the cars were on fire. Never made it all the way up to Inwood, and it’s all of course since gotten really gentrified. At the time, I had no idea I had roots up there.
Quite a bit of the Inwood neighborhood is still parkland, though, which is very cool. Here’s a contemporary view from further south and east… the humpy bit with all the trees behind the cows is still a humpy bit with trees, only now it’s got the Henry Hudson Parkway nestled behind it, leading to the Henry Hudson Bridge there, kind of in the middle. This part of town has the only untouched Manhattan forest land left, with a salt marsh.
Here’s what walking along Spuyten Duyvil Creek looked like, back in the day. The lady with the basket and child was basically abroad on a dirt road in the South Bronx. I’m thinking picnic:
Today she might be walking in front of the yellow brick building, I guess:
The other remnant of my dead relatives having frolicked in this vicinity is a street name… Seaman Avenue.
Here’s another snippet from myinwood.net:
Seaman Avenue First opened in 1908 and extended in 1912, Seaman Avenue is named for the family of Henry B. Seaman. The Seaman estate once covered some 25 acres from Park Terrace Hill to Spuyten Duyvil Creek. Henry was a descendent of Captain John Seaman who settled in Long Island in the 1650′s.
Here’s what the corner of Seaman and Payson used to look like:
Another wonderful quote on myinwood.net is from a 1921 article by Eleanor Booth Simmons. She wandered around Inwood talking with elderly residents, describing many of the old family houses then falling into ruin. Here’s my favorite bit:
Do you like to dream about old houses? Do you like to investigate neglected mansions of a past age, picturing the life that flowed through the high-ceilinged rooms now so musty and decayed?
If you are a New Yorker it isn’t necessary to travel to New England to indulge in this pastime. Forty minutes by subway from the shopping district, a brief walk, and you are in a region of old houses. Some crown the green hills of Inwood, which downtown excursionists are beginning to discover, and some, stranded on the streets, are rudely shouldered by modern apartment houses of glaring brick. But there they are, and in some of them you will find white-haired men and women whose talk takes you back to a day earlier than that in which the characters of Edith Wharton’s “The Age of Innocence” lived.
Fancy going into a house a few steps from the Dyckman ferry and finding two brothers and a sister who have dwelt there sixty years! These are the Flitners, children of the Maine sea captain, who, landing at the Hudson River dock with barges of lumber from the North, was so charmed with these shores that he brought his family here to live. Get them talking and they tell you of a time when there were but seven buildings above 187th Street east of Kingsbridge Road. In their childhood the winter skating was the social event of the locality. The lads damned up a brook that ran just north of Inwood Street, now Dyckman Street, and made a wide pond between two small hills. At night they lighted fires of Tar barrels and waste wood on the banks, and the community gathered and sang and shouted and did marvelous things on the ice. Perhaps the winters were colder then, for, as Charles Flitner remembers it, there was always ice from fall to spring.
But you can still go for a walk in the park along Spuyten Duyvil Creek:
Okay, dear ‘Ratis, where would you live if you could live ANYWHERE?
I am extremely grateful to Cole Thompson, a real-estate agent with New Heights Realty in Inwood. Much of the information about the Inwood neighborhood and the majority of the images in this post are from his fascinating blog, myinwood.net. If I ever have any money, I hope to buy an apartment from him. Or at least rent one…
This was a really fascinating post. I'm a sucker for history, and I'm fortunate in that both of my grandfathers share that fascination. They've both completed full genealogies for their sides of the family.
Since I'm adopted, I've always wanted to learn about my biological family history. I have no idea what my blood ancestry might look like, and it's the sole reason why I sometimes think, "I should track down my birth parents."
If I could live anywhere, it would be on a ranch in Wyoming or Montana, or anywhere else with wide open spaces and plenty of changes in elevation. A place where I could write and take photographs in peace.
Laura, I think it would be cool to find out about your biological history, but I know it's a big decision. My foster sister got in touch with her birth mother about five years ago, shortly before the lady died. It was a VERY complex situation, not all good, but I think she's glad she made contact.
What a fascinating family you have, Cornelia. I can trace some relatives back a couple of centuries, but can't actually make the connection to how they are related. One invented a sort of elevator in France in the late 1700's. I know he was related because all the family from that same name came from that part of Normandy, but who knows where the exact linkage is.
I love living in Cincinnati, but would really enjoy having a pied a terre in a city with lots of walking, museums, restaurants, and theater, like Paris or New York. It would have to be a quiet street, though, and I know that's not easy to find in New York, in particular.
Cornelia, this family history is fascinating. I wish you could have your apartment. Sigh. In the picture with the lady with the basket, I read "basset," and looked in vain for the dog. thought maybe it was in the basket. So I reread the lead-in. Oh.
I dreamed about you last night, or at least your voice. I heard you talking to my husband, rounded the corner and said "Where's Cornelia?" He said, "Oh, she's not here. She's talking from that box." On the floor was a black cube, from which you were speaking. Hmmm.
Hey there. It is always so interesting to read about your ancestry and I am constantly amazed by the photos you have. Such a rich history steeped in the vagaries of the wealthy and once wealthy.
My family wasn’t nearly as real estate rich or as colorful. I do have a photo of the log cabin in Cold Springs, Wyoming, where my father was born – children—his hers theirs—totaled 16.
The Seaman apartment is you. Go online and ask everyone to send you a dollar – ha!
Where would I live? Greece-Sciathos in the spring, Italy, Lake Como in the summer,
Missouri, Lake of the Ozarks in the fall, Vermont in the summer.
Ah, dreams, they keep the mind smiling
On the Oregon Coast on the west side of Hwy 101 in an apartment above a bookstore/coffee shop that I own (of course). Which shouldn't surprise anyone.
Karen, if I ever again have an apartment in NYC, you'll have to come visit and we can go walking around together.
Terry, that is such a bizarre dream! I'm glad I was there at least in spirit…
Judy, I would LOVE to see that photo–what great history! None of the photos in this post are mine, they're all off the internet. It works a lot better trying to find family history on Dad's side. Mom's maiden name was Smith, which is hopeless for Googling.
Janine, that apartment sounds perfect right about now… books and coffee right downstairs, what bliss!
Both sides of my family wound up in North Dakota to farm. I believe, however, that my mother's side got to the US quite a bit earlier. Dad brought us to Montana in 1972 via Colorado when I was five so I don't remember anywhere else. And I don't suppose I'd live anywhere else except it would be nice to be flush enough to go anywhere, anytime, and afford to do anything. In the meantime, I'm pretty content. 🙂
PK, as long as you can keep coming to Bouchercon, I'm content too…
There are so many beautiful places in the world, in my very own country, and yet, I'm content right where I am. Someone once remarked that our home was a nice starter. Yeah, it's small but we have no intentions of moving and hope to retire here. It's not big, nor is the property but when it comes to cleaning, to searching for missing toys or school work it's plenty big enough, and we all have our own space in its 1200 square feet. If I ever had to leave, the neighbourhood or city became violent or unsafe, my husband or I couldn't manage the stairs, I'd want a kitchen with a window and I'd like to look out towards nature I think.
Debbie, that sounds so wonderful. Especially your kitchen window…
I really like the care you take with your posts; the finished product is so lovely and polished. This one has a lot of nostalgia for me. When I was a little girl, some sixty years ago, my family lived in Manhattan and they had close friends who lived in Inwood. So I played in Inwood Park, and walked those paths near the Spuyten Duyvil bridge. We even did one of those Circle tours that took you around Manhattan, through all those waters. When I think of the great apartments I saw as a child, and their cost today, I have to laugh. Of course, at that time, all we wanted to do was move to the suburbs, and own a house. I live south of San Francisco now, and it is pretty much where I like to be. Of course, I would love Boston, or Cape Cod or London or…
Oh, lil, thank you! And how wonderful that you have good memories of that park. It still looks so lovely, it was a pleasure to wander around the area with my daughter. This is why I love the internet… not only can find out family history that might well have died out (my dad would rarely talk about his family), but I get to meet people online who have groovy connections to the same stuff that fascinates me. YEA!!!
It's so great that you have all that history to roll around in! I'm just now finding out things about my own family that are interesting and thought-provoking.
LOVE the apartment/condo/flat. It's so you!
Lillian and I would love to live on some acreage somewhere, away from traffic and drug deals and nonsense like that. Where we could have horses and chickens and dogs, and fruit trees and a ginormous vegetable garden. Dreams, wishes, hopes. We're just not city folks, as it turns out.
But I'd need a huge place, because I've got all these books I can't part with, and there are always more, somehow. . .
Grace yearns for a yellow house with white trim and enough property to keep horses, so maybe the rural thing skips a generation? I'm yearning to get back to the drug deals and the general nonsense… not to partake, just for the chinese food. And isn't it a trip to get old enough to start finding out cool family stuff? I was just thinking to myself this morning that I wished I'd cared when I was a little kid, and could've asked my grandparents what their parents were like.
Thank you for the wonderful post, I so enjoyed all the pics, old and new! I love NYC, our son lives there and everytime we visit, we never tire of touring the city, there is always something new to see. Love the apt! To drool for…
What a wonderful post. I'm happy to say that I live exactly where I want to live – in New York City. Now if only I had a couple thousand more square feet!
Grace, thank you!
Alafair, move to Inwood! Best dog parks EVER…
Cornelia, hey… cool post. My husband's great-some-number-grandfather died from a smallpox inoculation when he was president of Princeton (then called the College of New Jersey). Oooh.
Love these history posts – I think they should GIVE you the apt. for doing such a great job showcasing the area's history!
If I could live anywhere… not sure, but I think maybe a castle in Scotland. Or a turnkey horse farm in the middle of about 2000 acres. I really wish for total isolation most of the time.
Almost forgot- I would move back to Marblehead, Mass., maybe Boston with an apartment on Chestnut Street.
See, Reine… if only we could've introduced your great something uncle in law to my great something uncle, we might have changed the world. Then again, who knows what might have happened because of the shift–radioactive spiders? Yale loses more football games? Hard to know.
I'm big on total isolation, billie, but I like having the option of my meals cooked by someone else and delivered. In the country you have to go outside to talk to people or you run out of food. Either that, or you have to grow it and stuff. And from your lips to God's ears that somehow that apartment is gifted to me for my neighborhood PR work. That would be pretty cool. I could be the 141st relative contesting that will, I suppose…
Right now I'm trying to position my life so I can live half the week here in a small town surrounded by farm land and rainforest…( three bookstores, library, good coffee, at least three worthy drinking establishments + german bar and irish bar that overlook the valley and good friends to enjoy it with)…oh and the beach is only 30 minutes drive away too. The other half of the week I'd like to live in Brisbane so I could go to the theatre, and art galleries more.
As much as I love this town, I need to get out of here regularly for a dose of anonymity. I'd also like to live in New Orleans for a time.
I'm also adopted. I found my maternal bio family 21 years to the day I was adopted out as 10 day old baby. I wanted to say thank you and reassure my bio mum that I was happy. I was well aware that this could lift the lid on a lot of unknowns. That convoluted thought indicates how frankly weird it can be. I was able to get a more accurate read on what part of my make up was nature, and or nurture. There was lots of strange coincidences with where I lived with my adoptive family, and interconnectedness that would of totally freaked out my adopted mum if she'd been aware when I was growing up.
As an 10 year old we visited this little country town set in the middle of wheat fields hundreds of miles from where I grew up. We visited with friends of friends on a farm and I remember this quiet jolt where I looked around and thought I think these might be my people, or that my people could be sitting in a farm house near by. While I knew I was adopted I'd not overly thought about this (apart from the fantasy of being an opera singers love child that she couldn't traipse around the world with)…turned out that town was where my bio family came from.
As a baby my bio mum lived in the next town from me, and then throughout my childhood visited regularly her mother in law ( one of my adopted grandmother's friends). We would of attended that same church countless times.
When she was alive my bio mum was hard work. Not an easy person…actually a pretty messed up person. Truly without rancour the most loving thing she did for me was to give me up for adoption. While I can look at my childhood and see it wasn't all smooth sailing I'm still glad I was raised without secrets. My upbringing made me able to withstand a lot of what I found. In the plus side I have a good relationship with one of my bio brothers, and my bio sister.
I think it might be good to see what my bio family has done a few generations back. From what I know we're pretty good survivors. My adoptive family has a few centuries of large scale achievements threaded through the family line. Throughout both sides there is a certain level of nuttiness[ In PR terms innovative thinking].
I figure I'm influenced by about one third nature, one third nurture and the last third is what I chose to do with it.
Thanks again Cornelia for another troll around your own back history. I find the connection fascinating.
Ok that was not meant to be THAT long… and the last sentence should read connections…
i'm so glad it was that long, Catherine. That's really interesting, and besides which I think I wrote the world's longest blog post this morning. I like your thirds theory, especially.
I wouldn't mind if a helicopter dropped me a big "meals ready to eat" shipment – the gourmet, fresh veggie version – every few days in my state of total isolation. 🙂
One of my NYC writer friends was renowned b/c every time we were on the phone the call was interrupted by food being delivered. His oven was used as extra storage space.
Meanwhile I was often in the kitchen making things like dog biscuits or various meals for children. He could never believe I actually made dog biscuits. I couldn't believe he could get a different meal delivered 7 nights a week.
We got a lot of food delivered back when my daughters were tiny and I didn't sleep for about a year, what with the two of them sleeping in shifts. My then-husband used to call the Indian, Chinese, Burritos, Greek, Pizza, and Deli places that delivered "our basic food groups." Boy do I miss that… we've got a lot of good restaurants here in Cow Hampshire, but not all of them deliver and the pizza is lacking a certain je ne sais quoi.
If I lived where you do, I probably would've sent the dog to town with a note in its mouth asking if someone would bring me a pizza. THEN made dog biscuits. Although I actually like to cook, too. Especially if I've gotten enough sleep.
Fabulous post, Miss C! Love the history, and the photos are awesome.
Of course, if I could live anywhere I wanted, it would be in Paris, in the 5th arr. near the Luxembourg Gardens. I can see the apartment as clearly as if I were standing in it. *Sigh.* Maybe someday….
Cornelia, don't tell me you are familiar with my husband's 6th great-grandfather's spider sermons? They should give you the apartment and an MDiv!
Still weighing move-to places, so thanks for the reminder of Chinese food. Hmmm… good Chinese food in Boston… used to be in Salem… dunno anymore. Of course New York… !
Cornelia, I do hope you're planning to write a book about your family. Such fascinating lives, such historical import. It's very cool stuff!
Rae, you so deserve to live in Paris, and it would be awesome because I could come visit you and pretend to speak French as well as you do. (This would consist of me listening to you speak it to persons of the French persuasion and nodding my head knowingly, most likely.)
Reine–spider sermons! AWESOME!!!
JT, you are such a sweetie, thank you! And I was just looking at our little sign-in lines here and thinking again how pure genius your "comma sutra" is!!
JT, it is true, "Comma Sutra" is totally and completely brilliant, and I love it.
Cornelia, yes, his spider and web sermons apparently converted a number of my ancestors including one who is ancestor to both of us. Before that they just wanted to kill his kind, but when he started preaching in their indigenous language, using metaphor they could understand, they were moved.
Um… not to say I like his style- heh.