by Tess Gerritsen
I’m the daughter of a professional chef. My father’s family owned a popular seafood restaurant in San Diego called Tom Lai’s, and in that noisy, chaotic kitchen, my dad performed culinary miracles. Six days a week, he’d wake up before dawn to buy the fresh catch off the fishing boats. He’d spend the morning fileting the fish, then he’d cook for the lunch crowd, followed by cooking for the dinner crowd, followed by the cleanup. He’d get home around midnight, fall into bed — and be up the next morning to start all over again. That was his schedule, six days a week, fifty weeks a year.
Growing up in a chef’s family, I learned that the restaurant business is not for the faint of heart. It requires superhuman stamina and dedication and an abiding passion for food. While I don’t have my dad’s stamina, I did inherit his obsessive passion for food, and I have an eerie memory for meals I’ve eaten over the years. I don’t remember faces, I don’t remember names or dates, but I sure as heck remember the exquisite asparagus I ate at L’Arpege in Paris and the mahi filet at Burdine’s in Marathon and the fried lettuce (it sounds weird but it was delicious) at the long-gone Nanking Restaurant in San Diego.
In fact, not only do I remember what I ate, I often remember what other people ate.
A few weeks ago, while I was visiting New York City, I had dinner with friends, another married couple. We got to talking about the year we’d all had dinner together in Paris. It was 2003, and we ate at a lovely little restaurant called Flora’s. I looked at my friend’s husband. “And you ordered the turbot,” I said.
He looked a little startled. “Wow,” he said. “You remember that?”
Yes, peculiarly enough, I do — even seven years after the fact. I’m the idiot savant of past meals. I’ll play the same game with my husband, too. “Remember nine years ago, when we had dinner at such-and-such restaurant, and you ordered those lovely snails?” I’ll ask him.
“You remember I ordered snails?” he’ll respond. “I don’t even remember the restaurant!”
As someone who thinks way too much about food in real life, it’s not surprising that I think a lot about fictional food, too. I often find myself asking: “What would Jane eat?” or “What would Maura eat?” It’s not as trivial a question as you’d think, because what a character eats reveals a lot about them. It can tell you their family history, their ethnic background, whether they grew up in a city or a small town, whether they’re choosy or undiscriminating, whether they’re neurotic or obsessive or bursting with joie de vivre. It might even tell you something about their political persuasion.
Your characters’ dining habits also reflect their skills in the kitchen, and whether or not they value those skills. Which again tells you something about who they are as people.
Jane Rizzoli, one of the two co-stars in my thriller series, is a Boston homicide detective. She grew up in a blue-collar family with a homemaker mother, so she’s been exposed to the role model of a woman who cooks, and cooks well.
But don’t expect to read too many scenes with Jane cooking dinner. She certainly knows how to, because she grew up in an Italian-American kitchen. But Jane has struggled all her life to be accepted as “one of the guys.” She’s tried to project toughness and professionalism, and cooking symbolizes a traditionally female role that she’s been trying to escape from. She has a love/hate relationship with the kitchen, and only when she’s with her mother do we see Jane’s inner Italian chef emerge as she cooks gnocchi and veal sauce and roast lamb and cannoli. (Naturally, I had to test out those recipes myself first.)
Jane’s diet isn’t limited to home-cooked Italian food. In the eight books she’s appeared in, Jane has eaten fried fish and lobster rolls, barbecue and french fries. She’s very much an all-American, middle-class gal who’d choose beer over wine, hot dogs over sushi, and would probably not go hunting for exotic French cheeses at her local grocery store.
Then there’s Dr. Maura Isles, Jane’s co-star in the series. Maura grew up in San Francisco, trained as a physician, and she has a great deal more disposable income. She also has far more exotic tastes. In BODY DOUBLE, she cooks herself a spicy Thai dinner with fresh basil. When her lover comes to visit, she cooks him osso bucco and opens a bottle of Amarone wine. But when she’s exhausted and depressed and too tired to cook, you’ll find her hunched over a grilled cheese sandwich, washed down with a gin and tonic.
Yes, not only does food help define who your character is, it also helps define mood. A dinner of scrambled eggs says: “in a hurry.” A dinner of home-made risotto says: “willing to fuss long and lovingly over the stove.” And a dinner of Oreo cookies — well, that’s just plain pitiful.
I realize that I’m guilty of stereotyping here. Although we hear sneers about “latte liberals” and the snooty “white wine and Brie cheese set”, taste in food can cross class and cultural and regional lines. But as writers, we have to consider whether a character’s particular choice of foods seems a bit … unexpected. And if it is, we need to explain it. A neurosurgeon who loves Cheese whiz? Um, needs explanation. A Bostonian who eats grits? Again, needs explanation. But a San Francisco artist who dines on sushi one night, tacos the next, and Thai food on the weekends?
No explanation required.
The other example that comes most readily to mind is Robert B. Parker’s Spenser. Spenser’s a tough guy, but he’s also a good cook, which provides a grace note to his character. The danger of course, is overdoing it; getting so into the foodie aspects of a character that it bogs down the story. Even a genius like Parker, alas, fell into this trap on one or two occasions. Just keep in mind that when the characters are eating, they’re probably sitting down; something else in the story needs to be moving forward, such as the relationship between characters.
And I think the remembering meals years later is a female thing; my wife does the same thing.
Food and me go way back; I wouldn’t say I’m a foodie but for some reason I do remember the osso bucco scene in your book.
And I admit I’ve watched cooking shows and thumbed through magazines and thought "wouldn’t that be nice?" But my husband has a limited palatte which only lets me rotate around 10 recipes approximately. Uff da.
Tess, in the vein of memorable meals, next time you find yourself in Portland, I’d highly recommend Bresca. Like you, I have creepy food recall, and forever find myself compiling best-meal lists in my head. One meal at Bresca blew the rest I’ve ever had out of the water.
And regarding food in writing, one of my faves was Lawrence Sanders’ Edward X. Delaney. He’d make the mouthwateringest sandwiches, and eat them over the sink with a couple cold beers. Many a night as I read in bed I found my stomach rumbling…
Chris, thanks for the rec for Bresca! I will add it to my "must-dine" list.
And yes, I too am susceptible to hunger pangs when I read. I remember reading a novel with a loving description of a character making chili, and the next thing I knew, I was in the car racing to the market to pick up ingredients for a chili dinner.
Local honeycomb and Pecorino Romano ~ 4
Chorizo and gorgonzola stuffed dates ~ 6
Shaved brussels sprouts, toasted walnuts, parmesan, pecorino and olive oil ~ 7
Spiced mixed nuts, marinated olives, pickled Sparrow Arc farm pumpkin ~ 6
Foie gras bon bons, winter fruit chutney, toasted almonds ~ 10
Soup ~ 9
Toc ~ smoked ricotta, creamy polenta, royal trumpet mushrooms, radicchio, lardo ~ 10
Braised Tuscan Black Kale ~ 6 minute egg, crispy pancetta, kombu butter, charred multi grain bread ~ 11
Diver Scallop Agro Dolce ~ cauliflower risotto, caper raisin sauce, chili flake ~ 14
Roman Gnocchi ~ locally foraged mushrooms, Sherry stewed onions, fontina fonduta, parmesan ~ 20
Sea Urchin Linguini ~ uni, evoo, basil, mint, lemon zest ~ 22
Fettucini Alfredo alla Romana ~ parmesan, butter, shaved Sottocenere cheese, smoky egg ~ 20
Honey Glazed Duck Breast
roman trading spices, Amarone poached dried plum, frisee, soft mascarpone polenta ~ 25
Veal Blanquette (Harris Family Farm)
veal stewed in a light cream sauce, winter vegetables, fines herb, buttered pasta kerchiefs ~ 26
Braised Pork Shank
white bean and kale ragout, blood orange, rosemary ~ 26
Roast Veal Chop
sauteed mushrooms, radicchio, parsnip puree, veal jus ~ 28
The Steak (Meyers Farm Hanger)
bruleed Robiola, crispy potato, horseradish sauce ~ 26
daily preparation ~ mp
endive, radicchio, orange, Marcona almonds, shaved Cacio di Roma, herbs ~ 10
the one cheese
accompaniments change daily with the selection ~ mp
I recently watched the film Jar City, an Icelandic murder mystery from the detective Erlendur series of books by Arnaldur Indriðason. One of Erlendur’s defining features was his favourite drive-by dinner of sheeps head.
Having enjoyed the film, I started reading books in the rest of the series – only to find that Erlendur doesn’t seem to eat sheeps head particularly. A shame as this really helped add something to how I had perceived his character, but it must have been added for the film. I had expected these details to be more, not less, obvious in the books.
I’m glad you consider food. One of my friends can no longer swallow and is tube fed, and that is a huge influence in who she is and where she socialises. Even simple preferences such as vegetarianism are important detail. And a dodgy stomach used as an excuse not to eat out can be be a glimpse into someone’s personality.
It seems to me that from your description of her more lavish tastes, you prefer Maura’s character; I’ve always thought Jane more interesting, even if she often eats just for fuel. She might eat on the go, but she is always off to the action.
Now I’m off to make a late lunch; olive tapenade, feta and tomato on a ciabatta. Not sure what that says about me – sounds fancy but I only picked up ciabatta as it was reduced in price…
God, I wish I had that food gene. I’m happy with spaghetti every night and Raisin Bran in the morning. (I’ll need the bran, after all that pasta).
Great post, Tess.
Hmmm. Apparently, I’m not the only Bresca fan lurking on this blog. I confess, I wouldn’t have dared to paste the menu into a comment, but since it’s there, the foie bon bon and the duck are maybe the two tastiest things I’ve ever put in my mouth. And fussy though some of it sounds, it ain’t; it’s just delicious.
no no no, people! You’re making me hungry!
Dusty, I was always a little annoyed when Spenser talked about food. Maybe it made me hungry and envious, which resulted in pulling me out of the story.
I can’t honestly tell you if my characters have ever had a meal on stage. Oh maybe one — cafeteria food. A couple of cops eat slop while they discuss a case. Actually one eats slop while the other has a salad. So, yeah, character defining.
As for remembering meals, my mother in law sometimes takes photos of the food. In fact, in the age of the camera phone, I think a lot of people do.
By the way, Tess, I noticed your upcoming TV show is called Rizzoli and Isles. Wasn’t it originally just Rizzoli? If so, I like the title change.
Sorry, no time to respond — I’m going to the deli
Rob, yes, the title of the TV series will be "Rizzoli & Isles," because at heart, it’s a female buddy show. I’m really glad they changed it, because I think it has a much better ring than just "Rizzoli."
Your post reminded me of my youngest sibing’s first vacation, here’s a man who definitely marches on his tummy…did he talk about the sights, oh heck no! But he described in intimate detail the eating places and meals.
My oldest brother is something of a dictator, as well as being the head of his particualr clan, they went hunting as a group, 2-3 families together…when it came time to butcher the deer, cut the meat and make sausage, they all gathered in my brother’s basement as he had all the equipment neccessary..to feed that many people, they made a large pot of chili, and in the process he told his youngest…*don’t forget to spice the chili*. Well, nice people that they were, whenever someone would go upstairs for a bathroom break, or to get something…..they added spice to the chili, whether from following the direct order, or covering for the youngest member. Ends up, 6 people spiced that chili and not one of them had tasted it…I have always wanted to fit this scene in a story.
When I was a college student, I was the only one that lived off campus,.My friends would come over and because we were all struggling financially…..our meals were usually either spaghetti and cheap wine…or something we referred to as MOUNTIAN PIZZA….which was a homemade pizza with everyone contributing one item to it, deep dish of course, to hold all the ingredients, or if there happened tot be enough 2… they were stacked so high, hence the name.
Why I bring this up, is it’s not always the food…but the mood, on those nights, there was much discussion, debate, we were all in the same boat financially……I see scenes from THE BIG CHILL and remember those days.
one scene I remember reading, was a scene about Aloyicious Pendergast in a cafe and the items he asked for (it went with his character as written by Preston – Child) he then proceeded to mix Steak Tartar on his own plate…..I read it again, just to make sure…but then went to myself…"hell he’s making Tiger Meat." the name reflects location, cut of beef, and economic level.
Tess, why no love for Oreos? Yum, yum, yum!
Chris. I couldn’t think of a better way to describe Bresca’s food. The menu makes me cry. and Yes. The bon bons and duck are fucking genius.
I think that genre writers are a hungry bunch. Seems like every book I read has a foodie scene in it or several. Then there are the ones whose protags are chef’s or caterers or food critics. Ya have to have a plate of something in front of you while you read so you don’t go mad. Some even include recipes within the story or at the end of the book.
I have found that if I crack a book while I am on the stationary bike, I don’t gain as much reading weight.
Once you mentioned it …several examples just popped into my head, something we notice sublimely, but it’s not directly in your face or it can be, but our attention is directed elsewhere.
Food was used in the movie MISS CONGENIALITY for comedy relief….when Sandra Bullocks character was stuffing rolls and danishes in her bra, within her garter and gun holster.
It is also used in the series THE CLOSER, Brenda, has to run a department and *be tougher than some of the guys in it*…however, you see her taking almost senuous delight in twinkies from her stash in her desk, when she doesn’t think anyone is looking, or hurriedly swallowing a candy bar and almost choking on the pieces so she doesn’t get caught with this *sweet-tooth weakness*.
In the Harry Potter movies…the banquet scenes are almost decadent in scrumtious delights.
Here on Muderati, Toni’s use of the slogan *Shuck me, Suck me, Eat me Raw.* on a shirt throughout book one takes on a life of it’s own.
Tess, you’ve hit on two of my favorite topics here: food in mysteries and food in general. I remember my early fascination with Lawrence Sanders’ protagonist Edward X. Delaney’s distinction between dry sandwiches (which could be eaten sitting in front of the TV) and wet sandwiches (which had to be eaten over the sink).
Like Judy, I feel I ought to be on my way out to the deli at this point. Hey, it’s dinner time over here, OK? I quite like the descriptions of food in the Robert B Parker books, but the speed (or lack of) that Susan ate always drove me mad. Spenser would have devoured half a cow in the time it would take her to suck the dew off a lettuce leaf. Get a grip!
Most interesting food I ever had was in Japan, when a group of guys from Nissan’s Motorsport division took us out for very expensive sushi and we had Japanese lobster – that wasn’t actually dead at the point it arrived on the table … Tasty, though!
And Louise, love the definition of a wet and dry sandwich.
You’ve hit my sweet spot, Tess. My books are filled with food, dinners in NM.
I’m an avid cook and worked — as a pastry chef, prep cook, waitress, hostess, and even a coat check — for years. Now I just cook for our family (and friends at Passover) and, boy, do they eat well.
Pari………give me a good recipe for noodle kugel…..my mother-in-law’s tastes like a soggy trade paperback
well…….at least the way I IMAGINE a soggy paperback would taste. Unlike my dog, I have never literally ‘devoured’ a book.
My day would not be complete without a funny line from anonymous. to all the Murderati – saw JT last night – she managed not to get drenched in the downpour and Pari, she corrected my pronunciation of your name. It does not rhyme with Mary.
I’m back from the deli but unfortunately they didn’t have fried bologna sandwiches drenched in catsup with dill pickles and crunched Classic Lay’s.
and the name of the deli that DOES have the fried bologny and chip sammich?!!!!
Tess, your post started me thinking of other mystery series where food (cooking or consumption) shows up regularly…
I’m thinking of Lescroart’s Dismas Hardy and all the meals he cooks in his cast iron frypan…
Andrew Vachss’ Burke and his hot and sour soup…
Grafton’s Kinsey Millhone and the big macs and peanut butter & pickle sandwiches…
I know there are tons more, but those are the first three that popped in my head.
Oh yeah…a certain Sasha Solomon and her whipped cream…
Uh oh. I don’t think my characters eat. Going to have to check on that. I don’t think that says anything about them, though. It says the writer is tired of always being the one who has to decide what’s for dinner and doesn’t want to think about what the characters are going to eat too. [sigh]
Food descriptions almost always make me hungry. Except in JD Robb’s In Death series — the descriptions of "future food" are disturbing.
I don’t do kugel . . .but if you want matzo balls that are light and fluffy, if you want chicken soup so delicate a fairy (think Grimm Brothers, not Village People) would ask for seconds, and chopped liver that manages NOT to clog your arteries . . . I’m your gal.
Really, I made one heck of a Pesach dinner.
I’m glad you learned how to pronounce my name. Very pleased in fact.
Thanks, sweetie . . .
Um, I know Passover is later this month; I was just thinking of all the other years I’ve made –rather than make — them.
I got the matzoh balls down………faerie-like……even my fairy friends ask for more…..the chopped liver is one of my secret weapons…….my chicken soup is FDA approved…….it’s the damn kugel thing that puts me in last place every spring. Fuck it. We have always eaten my mother-in-law’s and we always will. TradiTION!!!
I am one of the few people left alive on Earth who readily admits to liking Gefilte fish……..with really HOT chrain……
Oy and Gevalt…….
Nice post Tess! You know us, Man…………
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He'd spend the morning fileting the fish, then he'd cook for the lunch crowd, followed by cooking for the dinner crowd, followed by the cleanup. He'd get home around midnight, fall into bed — and be up the next morning to start all over again. That was his schedule, six days a week, fifty weeks a year.
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